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Alta Adams Closed for Three Months. Its Soul Food Menu Came Back Rewritten.

Chef Keith Corbin folded Nigerian, Tunisian and Japanese touches into the California soul cooking at the West Adams restaurant.

A three-quarter view of a plate of charred melon wedges and shaved cucumber ribbons over a pale cream, pistachios scattered on top, on a wooden patio table in late-day light.
Charred melon with shaved cucumber over a cream base — the summer salad format Eater LA describes on Alta Adams' rewritten menu. (Photo illustration: The LA Globe)

Alta Adams, the soul food restaurant at 5359 West Adams Boulevard, closed in February 2026 and reopened in May with a rewritten menu and a redone dining room. Chef Keith Corbin spent the shutdown widening the California soul cooking that made the place, Eater LA reported on September 11, 2026, in a dining report by Kat Thompson.

That matters most to one kind of customer: the person who's been driving across town for years to order the same plate. Corbin told Eater the menu is no longer “just based around the same 10 to 15 dishes everyone knows.” Southern cooking is still in the room, he told the outlet. It just isn't the whole argument anymore.

What's around it now, per Eater's report, borrows from Mexican, Nigerian, Tunisian and Japanese kitchens — mole alongside the duck, miso and koji caramel, suya spice on bone marrow. That's a lot of passports for one menu, and it's the obvious place to be skeptical. A cook known for one thing can end up writing a menu out of his travel photos.

The black-eyed pea salad is the answer to that. Eater describes ham hock, cilantro, thinly sliced Fresno chiles and a lime dressing, and Thompson wrote that it plays like a main course wearing a side dish's clothes. Read the parts: that's the same soul cooking, reaching into a different spice drawer. My skepticism didn't survive the ingredient list.

Two more pictures from that report. Shaved cucumber ribbons circling charred cantaloupe on a feta cream, pistachios scattered over the top. Flatbreads sent out with the suya-spiced marrow, there to mop up bacon jam.

Then the flame-grilled section. Thompson wrote that the steak arrived at a juicy medium-rare but was “heavy-handed on salt,” and that the fire-roasted cabbage next to it — glazed with harissa and miso, propped up by a tahini and labneh cream — was salty as well. One critic, one night, but it's the only published account of the new menu I've read, and it lands on the newest part of it.

So here's my order, from their facts. Build it out of the black-eyed pea salad and the marrow with flatbread, put the melon salad on the table while the weather still justifies it, and let somebody else test the grill for a few more weeks. A restaurant that closed for three months to rethink itself is allowed to still be adjusting the salt in September; a regular paying steak prices doesn't have to be the one who finds out.

The room got rebuilt too — new banquette seating, a refinished bar with custom stools, artwork by Black artists — and Eater's report reads it as a place built for lingering over a second glass.

One practical note before you go. Thompson wrote that the melon salad is warm-weather cooking, and that it might not survive the turn into fall and winter. If you want it, that's a now decision. Ask for a table in the main dining room, where Eater says you can watch Corbin work.

Source: la.eater.com, retrieved September 13, 2026.

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